Plenty of chimney care is genuinely DIY — and some of it will get you hurt or burn your house down. Here’s where we draw the line, straight from three decades of Fox Valley rooftops.

Safe to do yourself

• Burn the right wood. Use seasoned hardwood dried 6–12 months (under 20% moisture). Wet or green wood is the fastest way to build dangerous creosote.
• Do a ground-level look. Once a season, step back and check the cap, crown, and flashing with binoculars. Missing cap? Cracked crown? Time to call.
• Test your CO and smoke alarms. Every fireplace home needs a working carbon monoxide alarm. Test monthly, change batteries yearly.
• Clear cold ashes safely. Wait 24 hours, scoop into a metal container with a lid, and store it outside away from the house — ashes stay hot longer than you think.
• Work the damper. Make sure it opens fully before you light a fire and closes when the fire is out and cold.
• Keep the hearth clear. Three feet of clearance from anything flammable, and a screen or glass door to catch sparks.

Leave these to a professional

Some jobs need training, equipment, or a head for heights — and the cost of getting them wrong is a fire, a fall, or carbon monoxide:

• Creosote removal. A light brush won’t clear glazed creosote, and you can’t see a cracked liner from your living room. That’s a professional sweep and inspection.
• Anything on the roof. Cap, crown, and flashing repairs mean working at height — a leading cause of homeowner injuries.
• Liner and masonry work. Relining and rebuilds require sizing, code knowledge, and materials rated for the job.
• Gas appliances. Never DIY a gas valve or igniter — live gas and carbon monoxide are involved.

A simple seasonal calendar

Late summer / early fall: book your annual sweep and inspection before the rush. Before each burn: open the damper, check for a strong draft. Winter: burn seasoned wood, watch for smoke backing up. Spring: look for water stains and a musty smell — signs of a cap or flashing leak to fix before next season.